When I first began my now regular dual-city lifestyle between Kuala Lumpur and Kuching 4 years ago, I found the pre-war buildings somewhat tiring and lacking in lustre, many fronted by worn-out pavements that could be tricky without the right footwear.
It was only the wholesale florists, my favourite grocery shop of Chai Huat Hin and the renowned Nam Heong chicken rice shop that warranted my visits to those streets.
However, significant changes have made the area much more charming these days. A younger crowd is making a beeline to new eateries that have emerged along Jalan Sultan, Jalan Petaling, Jalan Panggong and some hidden alleys.
‘Mingle’ is an artsy two shoplot vintage café with a somewhat quirky style. Its menu even lists a petai sambal pizza. Equally popular is ‘Merchant’s Lane’, often frequented by young professionals and students from the nearby colleges. Barely visible from the outside, one must slip upstairs to the first floor of this popular brunch café, whose interior decor includes large coils of incense for ambiance.
‘Ali, Muthu & Ah Hock’ was packed when I dropped by on a public holiday for their hot-selling nasi lemak and refreshing teh peng (iced tea). Just opposite, a film crew were busy filming what might be a Chinese New Year programme at the entrance of the ‘Malaya Hainan Restaurant & Café’ at Jalan Panggong.
Cuisine aside, one of the top attractions is actually a hidden alley that has been named as a must for visitors to Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. ‘Kwai Chai Hong’ (literally ‘Prankster Lane’ in Cantonese) is a historically rich lane that has been transformed into the latest tourist hotspot.
The ongoing project involves restoring 10 pre-war shophouses with six fronting Jalan Petaling and another four units along Lorong Panggong, as well as a laneway tucked between the two roads of Jalan Petaling and Lorong Kwai Chai Hong.
There are two theories as to the origin of the Kwai Chai Hong moniker. One is that migrants from South China referred to the mischievous children running around the area. The other theory is that the area was once filled with vice activities and was the hideout of the ‘Dragon Tiger Clan’, whose boss would refer to its members as ‘Little Ghosts’.
After lunch, I found myself simply following a large crowd making their way in a certain direction. To my surprise we arrived at a Chinese-style archway bearing the Mandarin characters of ‘Kwai Chai Hong’, apparently inscribed by a well-known Chinese calligrapher.
Many paused to pose at the red bridge (‘Hung Chiu’ in Cantonese) which leads into a hidden laneway. The bridge made of reclaimed wood salvaged from the shoplots during restoration work is also wheel chair friendly. An old kopitiam called ‘Ho Kow’ which was established in 1956 once stood at this site, but has since been relocated down the street.
Most eye-catching are the six murals painted by 5 local Chinese artists, depicting the daily activities of early Chinese settlers in the area during the 1960s.
The murals highlight a bygone era, featuring Chinese calligraphers who used to assist the early settlers in writing letters home to China and to form auspicious phrases; a lady posing at a window suggesting vice activity in the past; barbers carrying out their trade in the open air; children playing in the streets and colourful nostalgic advertisements; all gracefully painted on brick walls that have witnessed many memories.
Should you ever wander into this alley, look out for a century-old lamp post which is believed to be the only one surviving from the first set of lampposts installed in Kuala Lumpur when electricity arrived in the early 1900s.
Many visitors took a picture of those original wooden windows which are painted in blue and used as displays.
Instagram lovers will certainly have fun as the Kwai Chan Hong project has even incorporated modern technology. Just use your smartphones to scan the QR codes on the walls for an interactive and immersive experience.
With the convenient linking of the MRT and LRT services at Pasar Seni, KL’s Chinatown is now welcoming more tourists than ever before and is redeveloping as a leisure spot for the locals.
The older ones might return for a rekindling of nostalgia, whereas the younger generation are given an insight into the legacy of the past.
• This young girl could not resist a pose at this mural of children playing in the alley.Thank you.
