MELAKA: Tourists encircle a man sitting cross-legged in the veranda of Rumah Hang Lekiu looking spiffy in traditional Malay garb.
The person — who also happens to be Malay Culture and Heritage Centre (Perantara) chief executive officer, Dr Huzaifah Datuk Hashim — then adjusts the keris (dagger) at his side which he has paired with a songket (brocade) outfit complete with a sampin (sarong) and tanjak (headpiece) before he begins a retelling of how the custom of wearing a tanjak came about.
He said it began with the Melaka Sultanate and made up a person’s identity, conveying to others their status, rank, origin and personality.
“In the old days, when the idea of an identity card did not exist, the Malays used fashion to tell others who they were,” the sociocultural activist said as he cut a square piece of stiff paper to start the tanjak-making process.
He said it would have been far better for the wearer, too, if the person putting the finishing touches on the tanjak knew the person’s character so that it would fit him to a tee.
“The three main aspects of a tanjak are the base, its tying and style … that’s the basic no matter if it’s a traditional or modern one.
“ ‘Destar’ means headwrap and in the Malay world there are three kinds: the tengkolok which is normally worn by women, the tanjak worn by men and the semutar which is popular in the east coast and worn by men,” Huzaifah said while adjusting the position of the stiff material to be sewn to the songket fabric in the next phase of the creation process.
He said the number of takuk (tucks/folds) at the base of the headpiece indicates a person’s status, with one-fold for commoners, three for a palace dignitary and five or more for a raja or sultan.
“Aside from this, status and rank are communicated through the styling of the tanjak. For commoners, it is angled to the left, while for a raja or sultan, it is inclined to the right,” he said as he formed the base with the all-important tucks before finishing off by titivating the tanjak.
Tanjak styler, Masrizat Rahmat, 40, from Duyong — the location of Hang Tuah Village in Perantara — said lately the younger generation has become much braver and not ashamed of donning the tanjak, although without the complete traditional look.
“I think it’s a good start for the younger generation to revive the custom of wearing a tanjak which was celebrated at one time by the Malays,” he said.
He hoped the wearing of traditional clothing will prevent it from becoming forgotten and not just remembered through a display in a museum.
The school teacher said that every tanjak styler has their own approach based on their creativity, but with the standard features maintained.
For instance, he added, the ‘Ayam Patah Kepak’ of every styler of every branch and guru is different based on place and state, but with its traditional qualities preserved.
“To me, it’s like making asam pedas. While the taste depends on the cook, it is still ‘asam pedas’,” said Masrizat. – Bernama
