By Datin Shalini Amerasinghe Ganendra
The correlation between Malay textile artistry and the cultural values embedded in its garment creation is evident. By examining the beauty, craft skills, and functional aspects of these garments, it underscores how each textile carries a story.
Revisiting the Malay world through textiles and costumes: A cultural reflection through form and style
UNDERSTANDING material culture is crucial to comprehending the soul of a community. The textiles, patterns and garments worn by people are not merely a reflection of style, but also of the values, beliefs and histories that shape their identities. In this light, the intricate textiles of the Malay world serve as profound symbols of cultural expression and social significance.
Azah Aziz’s book ‘Rupa dan Gaya: Busana Melayu’ (literally translated as ‘Form and Style: Malay Attire’), originally published in 2006 and now in its third edition, provides an invaluable exploration of Malay attire and its rich cultural significance.
The newly republished ‘Malay Textiles and Costumes: Form and Style’ (Tita Publications), in English, brings these themes into sharper focus, offering a deeper understanding of the beauty and artistry embedded in Malay textiles while reflecting on the profound cultural messages they convey.
A Tribute to Heritage and the Art of Malay Attire
The book is a tribute to Azah Aziz’s mother, Ibu Azizah Jaafar, whose own appreciation for the Malay cultural heritage influenced the work. Led by Tan Sri Zeti Aziz, Azah’s daughter, this republished edition is both a tribute to the original work and a contribution to preserving and celebrating the cultural legacy of the Malay community.
The book serves as a critical resource not only for historians and textile enthusiasts but for anyone interested in the intersection of material culture, aesthetics, and identity.
The volume spans over 400 pages, offering a comprehensive look at the types of fabrics, styles, techniques, and the cultural contexts in which they emerged.
What sets this publication apart is its focus on the interconnectedness between Malay textile artistry and the values embedded in these cultural creations. By examining the beauty, craftsmanship and functional aspects of these garments, Aziz underscores how each textile carries a story – a story deeply tied to the Malay worldview, shaped by centuries of interaction with various regional and global influences.
The Role of Textiles in Expressing Identity
At the heart of this book is the exploration of how Malay textiles are an embodiment of cultural identity. Aziz opens with fundamental questions: “Who are the Malays?
What is their form and soul? What are the attributes, values and life that determine the character and identity of the Malay community?”
Through her detailed examination of Malay attire, she provides one compelling answer. Clothing is not just about appearance, but about the spiritual, moral and communal values that define the wearer. Each garment, from the humble kain pelikat to the elaborate songket, is a reflection of the deeper values of the Malay people.
The Malay culture, as depicted through its textiles, showcases the beauty of a cosmopolitan society. Malay dress incorporates elements from various regions – Indian, Arab, Chinese and even European influences – that have shaped its evolution.
This is evident in the variety of fabrics explored in the book, from traditional Batik Kedah and Cindai to regional specialties like Kain Bugis and Limar. Each textile serves as a marker of social status, occasion and locality, yet they all tie back to shared Malay values such as modesty, elegance and respect for nature.
The Deep Connection between Design and Nature
One of the most striking elements of Malay textiles is the deep connection between design and nature.
Traditional Malay textiles often feature motifs inspired by natural elements such as clouds, waves, flowers, leaves, and fruits. These designs are not merely decorative; they are symbolic representations of the environment that the Malay people have long revered. This respect for nature is embodied in the use of natural dyes and materials, such as indigo, turmeric, and hibiscus, which were traditionally employed to create vibrant colours and patterns.
Aziz elegantly weaves this environmental respect into the narrative, showing how these natural motifs convey a deeper philosophy of harmony between humanity and the world around it.
Whether or not this was the author’s explicit intent, the symbolism in her descriptions speaks volumes about the deep cultural resonance these textiles hold. Through intricate motifs and patterns, Malay attire serves as a tangible representation of the natural world, reinforcing a sense of place and continuity.
Unveiling the Spiritual Dimensions of Malay Design
Beyond aesthetics, Aziz’s work also explores the spiritual dimensions of Malay design. Malay clothing is often imbued with cultural and ethical values, expressed not just through the visual appeal of the garments but through their symbolism and significance.
The concept of Budi, for example, is crucial in understanding the deeper meaning of Malay textiles. Budi represents balance and the moral responsibility that comes with the beauty of Malay design. This value is apparent in every aspect of traditional dress, from the choice of fabrics to the crafting techniques employed.
In Malay society, the act of wearing traditional attire is not merely about displaying beauty – it is about embodying the virtues associated with the garment.
Aziz points to specific terms in Malay that reflect this connection between design and character. For instance, Sajak means harmonious, Santan suggests modesty and restraint, while Anggun conveys elegance and grace.
The wearer of such garments is seen not only as a custodian of beauty but also as a representative of the values and ethics that these designs embody.
The Integration of Pantuns in Malay Textile Culture
A unique feature of Aziz’s work is her integration of pantuns (traditional Malay verses), which provide a poetic reflection on the symbolic meanings of textiles and their cultural significance.
These verses offer a window into the spiritual and emotional connections Malaysians have with their clothing. A few examples of these pantuns appear throughout the book, linking themes of love, nature and spiritual values with the beauty of Malay attire:
- In the chapter on ‘Malay Motifs and Patterns’, a pantun connects true love to garments:
If true the basil a drum could be,
And mushrooms sprout upon the door;
If true thy love for me should be,
Snip me a garment from the clouds or more. - In the chapter on the role of beauty in Malay textiles, another pantun emphasises the relationship between beauty and virtue:
Abrus pips are speckles;
Saga seeds are red;
Virtue lies in noble deeds,
Beauty lies in language said.
These pantuns not only beautify the text but also deepen the reader’s connection to the cultural themes discussed, reminding them of the poetic traditions that are at the heart of Malay society.
A Visual Celebration of Craftsmanship
The visual aspect of the book is equally compelling. Hundreds of stunning photographs, many newly added for this edition, showcase a diverse range of Malay textiles and costumes.
These images help contextualise the historical significance of each textile and its place in the daily and ceremonial lives of Malaysians. From the ceremonial robes of royalty to the everyday attire of village folk, the photographs capture the richness and diversity of Malay sartorial heritage.
Each image is carefully selected to highlight not only the craftsmanship but also the cultural narratives behind the designs. Portraits of wearers, past and present, add a personal touch to the book, reminding readers that these garments are not just abstract cultural symbols but lived experiences.
These images create a bridge between the past and present, demonstrating how traditional garments can continue to hold meaning and relevance today.
The Book’s Legacy and Its Contemporary Relevance
In addition to the photographic richness, the book’s inclusion of a Malay terminology glossary is invaluable. It helps readers familiarise themselves with the specific terms and cultural references crucial to understanding the nuances of Malay attire.
Aziz’s personal reflections at the end of the book further enhance the reader’s understanding of her motivations, not only as a scholar but also as a passionate advocate for preserving the Malay cultural heritage.
She ends the book with a touching pantun (traditional Malay verse) that encapsulates the core message of the work:
A dove spreads its wings aloft,
Glides down to feed in rice fields yonder;
Kept in chests, it may be lost,
Best kept in the heart, ‘twill last forever.
This pantun serves as a metaphor for the preservation of culture – just as the dove carries the seed of the rice field, so too does the heart carry the legacy of Malay culture.
The textiles, symbols and stories preserved in this book are meant to live on in the hearts of future generations, ensuring that the Malay identity continues to thrive and evolve.
Conclusion: A Rich Tapestry of Meaning and Beauty
Ultimately, ‘Malay Textiles and Costumes: Form and Style‘ is far more than a mere catalogue of clothing and textiles. It is a celebration of the Malay identity, a rich tapestry of history, culture and spirituality that has been passed down through generations.
Through its detailed exploration of the intricate designs, fabrics, and cultural meanings embedded in Malay attire, this book is a valuable resource for anyone seeking to understand the depth of the Malay world and its cultural legacies.
It is a call to not only admire the beauty of Malay textiles but also to recognise their profound connection to the Malay people’s history, values and spiritual beliefs.
In this new edition, ‘Malay Textiles and Costumes’ stands as a testament to the enduring significance of material culture in shaping identity, preserving traditions, and embracing a cosmopolitan legacy that continues to enrich the cultural fabric of Malaysia.
