PADUNGAN may not hold the title of Kuching’s oldest street – that distinction belongs to Gambier Street or Main Bazaar – but this century-old township remains one of the city’s most iconic and dynamic areas.
A walk through Padungan is like stepping into a time machine that blends nostalgia with modernity, where the whispers of the past mingle with the hum of contemporary life.
Even today, finding a parking spot in Padungan can be a challenge. Whether you’re drawn by the allure of its famous food, its old charm, or its buzzing atmosphere, you’ll often find yourself circling the streets for a while, searching for a place to leave your car.
Yet, the inconvenience of parking hasn’t deterred visitors.
Despite the appeal of newer, upscale developments like Gala City or Tabuan Jaya, Padungan continues to attract people who seek something distinct – something alive.
The area, often referred to as Kuching’s Chinatown, has retained much of its heritage despite the passage of time.
Most shophouses that line its streets are over a century old, their facades bearing the marks of history.
Yet, Padungan has not resisted change; rather, it has embraced it, blending the old with the new in a way that feels organic. This juxtaposition of eras is what makes Padungan so fascinating.
The township’s rich history has been immortalised in literature, such as James Yong’s book recounting his experiences there. Through his reflections, the nuances of Padungan’s past come alive – the sights, sounds, and characters that once defined the area.
It is a story of resilience and transformation.
In the last two decades, Padungan has undergone significant changes. Gone are the unsightly rubbish dumps that once marred the alleys and backyards between shops; they’ve been cleaned up by the local authorities, giving the area a new lease on life.
While some businesses have closed their doors, unable to keep pace with changing times, others have adapted, ushering in a wave of modern establishments.
Hotels, too, have seen a shift. Tall, sleek structures like the Sheraton Hotel, Roxy, Meridian Boutique Hotel, and Lime are symbols of progress.
Older hotels such as the Taipan Hotel and Longhouse Hotel remain cherished relics of a bygone era.
One of the most recognisable symbols of Padungan’s evolving identity is the iconic Cat Statue, erected in the 1980s. This whimsical monument has become a beloved landmark, embodying the playful spirit of Kuching while serving as a reminder of how the city has grown and changed over the years.
Padungan’s golden age spanned the 1950s through the early 1970s when it was a bustling hub of activity.
At its heart was the old wet market, a lively space where housewives gathered daily to shop for fresh vegetables, poultry, fish and meat.
The market, which has since been relocated to Petanak, was a microcosm of life in Padungan, teeming with energy and camaraderie.
Nearby, itinerant hawkers plied their trade, selling everything from satay and popiah to chicken porridge and char kway teow.
The air was thick with the aromas of freshly cooked food and the chatter of vendors and customers.
Entertainment in Padungan during this period came in the form of two cinemas: the Odeon and the Capital.
These theatres were the cultural epicentres of their time, drawing crowds eager to watch Hong Kong’s Shaw Brothers films.
Long before the era of streaming services and multiplexes, these cinemas provided a communal experience that brought people together.
As someone who once called Padungan home, I can still vividly recall the sights and sounds of the area during its heyday.
The faces of familiar hawkers, the clatter of bicycles, the sizzle of food being cooked on portable stoves – all of these memories are indelibly etched in my mind.
Even today, traces of that vibrant past linger in the form of traditional food stalls and shops that have weathered the test of time.
One such enduring feature is the Song Kheng Hai ground, a small green space nestled between the shophouses. This rugby field, once the site of matches featuring visiting teams from the British or Thai Navy, remains a cherished part of Padungan’s landscape.
Though the wet market that once stood nearby is long gone, the field endures as a reminder of the area’s communal spirit.
Padungan’s streets would come alive during festivals like Chinese New Year and the Mooncake Festival. Vibrant decorations adorned the area, and the air buzzed with the sounds of celebration.
These traditions persist to this day, drawing crowds who come to soak in the festive atmosphere and shop for traditional items like waxed duck, minced pork, joss sticks and hell money.
The spirit of these celebrations serves as a bridge connecting Padungan’s past to its present.
Modern-day Padungan is a bustling town centre where heavy daytime traffic and a scarcity of parking spaces are constant challenges.
Yet, these minor inconveniences are a testament to the area’s enduring popularity.
Visitors flock to Padungan for its renowned culinary offerings, including local favourites like ‘kolo mee’, ‘laksa’, and ‘kueh chap’.
Cafes and eateries have sprung up along Jalan Chan Chin Ann, adding a contemporary flair to the area. Sidewalk cafes, a vibrant music venue with live band performances, and a racingthemed cafe catering to ‘Petrol Heads’ are just a few of the establishments that contribute to Padungan’s lively atmosphere.
However, not all changes have been welcomed with open arms.
For some, the transformation of old landmarks into modern businesses feels like a loss. Iconic shops like Wing Hiong, once revered as community institutions, have faded into memory, their vibrant pasts now wistful reminiscences.
The sight of a ‘For Sale’ sign in front of an old hotel, its paint peeling and its walls weathered, is a poignant reminder of the inevitable march of time.
Still, Padungan retains its charm for those who have known it through the decades. Kam Sin Poh, a former resident whose grandfather owned a vegetable shop that still stands today, reflects on the area’s evolution with nostalgia and practicality. While traffic jams and limited parking have discouraged him from living in Padungan, he acknowledges the area’s enduring appeal as a hub for authentic cuisine and convenient shopping.
For residents of the old KMC flats and MBKS flats, Padungan remains a touchstone of their heritage. Its streets, lined with century-old shophouses, evoke memories of a simpler time while offering the conveniences of modern life.
The area’s unique blend of old and new continues to draw locals and visitors alike, making it a vibrant and essential part of Kuching’s cultural landscape.
Though Padungan may no longer be in its prime, it is far from forgotten.
Its rich history, vibrant community, and distinctive character ensure that it remains a beloved part of Kuching.
With careful attention to its traffic issues and continued respect for its heritage, Padungan holds even greater potential for the future – a place where the past and present coexist in perfect harmony.
