A HIGHLIGHT of the vibrant Ramadan bazaar scene is the much-loved lemang, a classic Malay dish made with glutinous rice, coconut milk, and salt, cooked in a hallowed bamboo tube lined with banana leaves.
At the busy Stutong Ramadan Bazaar, Mohd Saiful Bahari, 47, also referred to as Saiful Lemang, is a well-known full-time lemang vendor. He has 13 years of expertise in the lemang trade.
In an interview with the New Sarawak Tribune, he underlined the need to protect the lemang sector in spite of the difficulties brought on by increment in prices, and as a lemang seller, he feels compelled to uphold the legacy of this traditional food.
“It’s regrettable that we can’t sell lemang as effortlessly as we once did in the past,” he said.
Even a RM1 rise, according to Saiful, wouldn’t have a big effect on his clients, but it would undoubtedly hurt his own profits; so, a result, he adjusted the size of his lemang to maintain competitive pricing.
Thinking back, he recalled selling 12-inch lemang for just RM4.50 with his late father-in-law and to show his adaptability and creativity in reaction to shifting market factors, he is now selling larger 18-inch lemang for RM16 in order to accommodate the current situation.
Saiful reported that he hasn’t seen a drop in business; rather, he has seen a rise in sales, especially during holidays.
“I’ve also introduced innovative variations, incorporating meats like chicken, beef, and mutton into the lemang, establishing myself as a pioneer in lemang innovation,” Saiful said.
“However, these speciality lemang varieties are crafted specifically for special occasions such as Hari Raya, Chinese New Year, and even Gawai celebrations, catering to VIPs, hotels, and other discerning customers,” he continued.
Saiful, the second generation in a lineage of lemang sellers, began his journey alongside his father-in-law at the old Satok market, later moving to the Medan Niaga Satok.
“I was quite reserved and would often shy away when accompanying my late father-in-law to sell lemang and I doubted whether selling lemang could provide a sustainable livelihood,” Saiful admitted.
“However, one day, with just RM50, I purchased lemang ingredients and discovered that with a capital of only RM20, I could yield a profit of RM30 after sales,” he recounted, reflecting on his venture into the lemang trade.
Saiful realised that selling lemang may yield a profit, which led him to take a riskier and more creative strategy to tackle current situations.
At the moment, Saiful is training his son to be the third generation of lemang sellers by imparting expertise to him and under Saiful’s supervision, his son now oversees another stall at the Stutong Ramadan Bazaar this year.
Mohd Iskandar Hashim, a lemang seller in his 30s at the Kubah Ramadan Bazaar, has been involved in the lemang trade since he was a little boy, having learned the craft from his late father.
The Lemang Sunday Market, also called Lemang Ah Seng, has been a mainstay in the neighbourhood for many years although he makes lemang at home and sells at the Medan Niaga Satok.
“According to what I remember, our lemang sold for RM8 a stick back in 2000. But we’ve gradually raised the price over time, and as of this year, it stands at RM12 per stick,” Mohd Iskandar said regarding the consistent price increase.
“Unfortunately, the prices of ingredients continue to rise constanly,” he added.
Mohd Iskandar expressed his gratitude to his old and new customers for their receptiveness and their understanding, saying that even with the price hikes, the impact on him as a seller has been modest.
Lemang Ah Seng charges RM12 for a small stick of lemang and RM15 for larger ones.
