‘Durians smell awful — but the taste is heavenly.’
— Smithsonian Magazine.
I have read a lot about the durian buffets in West Malaysia and never dreamed that I will be visiting a durian orchard to sample as many durians as I can stomach.
But yesterday, there I was at a durian orchard in Balik Bahang, Penang with my former classmates from St. Elizabeth’s Convent School (now renamed SMK St Elizabeth) in Sibu.
We are currently touring Penang as part of our class reunion and the durian buffet is one of the highlights of our 6D5N Penang and Hatyai tour.
On our way to the durian orchard, we passed by many five-star hotels like Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Penang and Shangri-La Golden Sands.
We also passed by Teluk Bahang Dam, the largest dam on Penang Island, which was built to provide an alterntive source of water supply to the Ayer Itam Dam and the Botanic Gardens Waterfall.
My friends and I were charged RM99 per head for the durian buffet. The cost is included in our tour package. I don’t know how much a durian costs in Penang but in Kuching, a small local durian costs around RM20 at Mile 7 Bazaar.
How do we know that it is the durian season in Penang? From a former classmate who is living there.
Besides, in my hotel room, there is a big notice from the management that reads, “In the interest of all hotel guests, we regret to advise that durians are strictly not permitted in the hotel premises. A room recovery fee of RM300 will be imposed to remove the odour. We thank you for your kind understanding and cooperation.”
The visit to the durian orchard yesterday was one of the highlights of our Penang tour yesterday.
On arrival, members of my tour group immediately posed in front of a colourful sign bearing the name of the orchard.
There was a big net above our heads to prevent durians from falling down on us.A tall signboard with the words “Beware of falling durians” has also been erected by the orchard owner.
Some of my eagle-eyed friends also spotted durians on some of the trees and happily shared the pictures with us on our group chat that night.
At the orchard, we were directed to a big shed with big, long tables and ample chairs.
Even before all of us were properly seated, the orchard workers began to split the piles of durians on a table beside them and serve them to us.
The durians were of different sizes and among them was one enormous Musang King which we were all eyeing. One of the workers told us it would be served last.
“If you eat it first, you will not enjoy the other durians,” he said
Most durian lovers favour Musang King, a cultivar of durian much prized for its unusual combination of bitter and sweet flavour.
Anyway, at the buffet, we did get to eat a few Musang King durians eventually. But we were served many durians of unknown species first.
The workers did not inform us what species they were serving and we did not ask.
Besides durians, we were also served chempedak and rambutan fruits. We were also given bottles of mineral water to wash down the fruits.
My classmates and I ate all the durians we could until we could no longer eat another piece. After that, the workers stopped serving us the fruits.
During the buffet, we also learnt that the durian season at that orchard was coming to an end. Apparently, we had arrived in Penang just in time to enjoy the durians before they stopped plummeting.
My friends, how many durians do you think you can eat at such a buffet?
Well, I think if I counted all the seeds beside me, I ate just about one small durian. Since I am not a durian lover or a great eater, that was not surprising.
However, some of my classmates really ate a lot. When we had dinner at a Chinese restaurant a few hours later, they said they were still full.
Before the buffet, a friend in Kuching had messaged me. “Curious how the farm looks like. Pick your own durians? Need to wear a helmet?” she asked.
“Will let you know after the buffet,” I replied.
Even though I had to fly from Kuching, Sarawak to George Town, Penang, and book my tour one year in advance, I am glad and consider myself very fortunate to be able to partake in the durian buffet. It is an experience that I will certainly treasure for a long time.
