For the Bidayuh community, Christmas is much more than a single day of celebration. It is a vibrant, weeks-long season of togetherness, joy and culinary traditions that extend from late December through to the New Year.
At the heart of this festive period is the food — a blend of cultural heritage and familial love.
Janncy Nyohim, a 40-year-old home cook from Bau, views Christmas as a time when food takes centre stage in uniting families and preserving traditions.
“We don’t have specific Christmas menus.
“What makes our food unique is the way we prepare it — using traditional methods like wood-fired cooking and bamboo cooking, or what we call pansuh,” she explained.
“Preparing food is a family affair. We all play our part, from chopping vegetables and marinating meat to tending the fire.
“Everyone, from daughters to sons-in-law, has a role, making the kitchen a hub of activity and laughter.
“These shared moments hold special significance for families who may not see each other often.
“Cooking together strengthens family bonds, especially when we haven’t been together for a long time.
“It’s also a way to ensure that everyone leaves with more than just full stomachs.
“We usually prepare food in large quantities so that relatives can take some home as a gesture of love,” said this Kampung Skio native.
For the Bidayuh, preparing food for Christmas often begins long before the actual cooking.
Families venture into the forest to find the perfect bamboo for pansuh, a practice that reflects a deep connection to nature.
“Bamboo must be chosen carefully because it imparts a distinct flavour to the dish,” Janncy shared.
While bamboo can be bought in the village, the process of finding it adds a sense of tradition and mindfulness to the preparations.
Wood-fired cooking, another hallmark of Bidayuh cuisine, is becoming increasingly rare due to the difficulty of sourcing firewood.
“In the past, we’d gather firewood ourselves before the festive season, but now it’s often bought from villagers who still collect it,” she said.
Despite these challenges, Janncy believed the effort is worth it.
“The process, to me, is just as important as the dish itself,” she said.
On Christmas Day, the Bidayuh table typically features a mix of traditional and modern dishes.
A must-try delicacy, according to Janncy, is tiboduk, a sweet treat resembling dodol but with a softer, less sticky texture.
Cooked in bamboo lined with banana leaves, tiboduk is made from glutinous rice flour, rice flour, coconut milk, gula apong, white sugar, and a pinch of salt.
For those who prefer a coarser texture, soaked rice — pounded or blended to the desired consistency — can be used as an alternative to the rice flour.
Speaking about her must-cook dishes, Janncy said one of the most essential is pansuh ayam tua — old chicken slow-cooked in bamboo, a cherished family tradition.
Another staple on their table is duck or pork tairu (or pak lo), a recipe passed down through generations after one of her ancestors married a Chinese partner, blending cultures in a dish rich with history.
She also treasures a recipe for babi goreng tipuji — fried pork with fermented tofu — originally taught by a Chinese chef in Pahang, which her late father learned and lovingly passed on to the family.
“These are the dishes that make Christmas truly feel like Christmas. They carry the memories of our family and bring us closer together,” Janncy said with a warm smile.
In her village, Christmas doesn’t end on the 25th. The festive spirit continues into the New Year, with families hosting visitors and sharing meals.
Western-inspired dishes like spaghetti and grilled meats, Janncy noted, often find their way onto the menu, showcasing the community’s ability to blend tradition with modern influences.
“Every day during this period brings something different.
“Some families serve big meals, while others offer various cookies and kek lapis — similar to what’s served during Hari Raya,” she said.
For those lucky enough to be invited to a Bidayuh Christmas feast, Janncy recommends starting with the traditional dishes.
“Tasting them is like stepping into our culture.
“From rendang daging and kari ayam to lemang and tiboduk, each dish tells a story of heritage and love,” she said.
For the Bidayuh, Christmas is about more than just feasting — it is a celebration of family, history, and the joy of being together.
As Janncy beautifully puts it, “Food is not just about filling the stomach; it’s about bringing people together, creating memories, and honouring the traditions that have been passed down through generations.”
As the aromas of bamboo-cooked dishes and wood-fired meals fill the air, the true spirit of a Bidayuh Christmas shines through: a celebration of love, unity, and the enduring power of tradition.
