This is the last part of a five-part series on the natural wonders of Mulu.
The final part of Natural Wonders of Mulu highlights how tourism has improved livelihoods through guiding, portering, and homestays. While it boosts the economy, challenges like balancing growth with conservation remain, requiring sustainable tourism practices for the region’s future.
A Community Thriving in Harmony with Nature
As the Natural Wonders of Mulu series comes to an end, the final part explores the heart of Mulu — its people.
While the towering limestone karsts and intricate cave systems have earned Mulu recognition as a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) World Heritage Site, it is the lives and stories of the local community that provide the site with its deeper meaning and enduring legacy.
Mulu’s UNESCO designation in 2000 did more than protect its natural wonders.
It sparked a transformative journey for the Berawan, Penan, and other indigenous groups who call this rainforest paradise home.
Over the years, tourism has introduced new economic opportunities, enabling locals to thrive as guides, porters, boatmen, and homestay operators.
However, the journey has not been without its challenges.
The people of Mulu have learned to adapt, innovate, and persevere, embracing their dual roles as custodians of nature and hosts to the world.
Tourism as an Economic Lifeline
Before Mulu gained global recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its communities relied on traditional livelihoods such as subsistence farming, hunting, and fishing.
The arrival of tourism brought significant changes.
Today, visitors from around the world come to explore Mulu’s famous caves, trek through lush rainforests, and experience the rich culture of the local community.
This influx has created new economic opportunities, enabling locals to improve their quality of life without leaving their villages.
The impact of tourism has been far-reaching, allowing many young people to stay close to their families and avoid seeking employment in distant cities.
It has also introduced the community to new skills, ranging from language proficiency to hospitality management.
Yet, the shift hasn’t been easy. Balancing economic growth with environmental preservation remains a constant challenge, as does ensuring equitable access to opportunities for all members of the community.
Navigating the Rivers: A Boatman’s Life
For Johnny Ipoi, a 49-year-old boatman from Kampung Melinau, the rivers of Mulu have been both his livelihood and his way of life.
With over 20 years of experience, Johnny has played a crucial role in ferrying tourists to some of Mulu’s most iconic sites, including Clearwater Cave and Wind Cave.
“The work keeps me close to home and my family. I have been doing this for so long that the rivers feel like an extension of who I am,” he said.
Johnny’s day starts early, around 8.30 or 9 in the morning, when he picks up tourists eager to explore the wonders of Mulu.
“Our first stop is usually Kampung Batu Bungan, where tourists visit the Batu Bungan Craft Market. They spend about 30 minutes browsing local crafts before we move on to Wind Cave and then Clearwater Cave,” he said.
At Clearwater Cave, tourists typically take a short break, sipping coffee or tea while enjoying the serene surroundings before heading back.
While the visitors explore, Johnny and his fellow boatmen wait by the river.
“It can get a bit monotonous, just waiting. But it’s part of the job, and it’s always worth it when the tourists are happy,” he said.
Despite the steady flow of visitors, Johnny admitted that the work comes with its challenges.
For instance, maintaining the boats has become increasingly difficult.
“Finding the right wood for repairs isn’t as easy as it used to be. The type of wood we need is scarce now, and it only lasts about three to four years before it needs replacing,” he said.
Johnny also pointed out that fuel costs are another hurdle, with a gallon of fuel costing RM15. During peak seasons, shortages are common.
“We have to plan ahead, especially in August, which is the busiest month. I always keep two drums of fuel on standby at home just to make sure we don’t run out,” he said.
Despite these challenges, Johnny finds joy in his work.
“Tourists are usually friendly and curious. Europeans, in particular, are fun — they’re often playful and excited about riding the boats. It’s enjoyable to see their reactions and share a bit of our culture with them,” he said.
The growth of tourism in Mulu has brought significant changes over the years.
Johnny recalled a time when homestays were the main accommodation for visitors, before the establishment of the Marriott and the airport.
“Back then, we had plenty of tourists, but now, with the airport, the numbers have grown even more. From June to August, the place is packed.
“It’s good for the community because it creates jobs and opportunities for everyone,” he said.
Johnny also emphasised the importance of Mulu National Park’s contributions to the local community.
“The park has helped a lot of young people stay in Mulu to work instead of moving to the city. It’s good because the cost of living here is lower, and families can stay together,” he said.
In addition to his work as a boatman, Johnny is also part of the State Fire and Rescue Department’s (BOMBA Sarawak) Mountain Cave Search and Rescue (MOSAR) team.
“At first, I wasn’t sure about joining because of my responsibilities in the village. But a friend encouraged me, and I’m glad I joined.
“It’s rewarding to be part of a team that helps people in need,” he said.
When asked what advice he would give to young people in Mulu considering moving to the city for work, Johnny reminded them that there is no place like home.
“My advice is to look for opportunities in your hometown first. The state government is creating more jobs in Mulu, and staying here means staying close to your family and your roots.
“Be proud of where you come from, and take advantage of the opportunities being created,” he said.
Guiding Visitors Through the Wonders of Mulu
For Ritchie Philip, a 34-year-old from Long Terawan, becoming a guide was both a return to his roots and a fresh start.
Ritchie began cultivating his skills and knowledge as a guide during his four years working at Mulu National Park.
“We had special classes and training every Thursday, where we learned about various aspects of nature and the unique attractions the national park has to offer,” he said.
However, Ritchie eventually stepped away from guiding when he moved to Miri to work as a welder.
After three years away from home, the distance gave him a renewed appreciation for what he had left behind.
Feeling the pull of his village and the natural beauty of Mulu, Ritchie decided to return and pursue freelance guiding.
“Working as a guide allows me to stay in my village. I am surrounded by the natural beauty of Mulu, and it’s fulfilling to share it with people from all over the world.
“Sometimes, you need to step away to truly value what you have. That’s why I decided to come back home and work as a freelance guide,” he said.
As a freelance guide, Ritchie’s income fluctuates with the seasons, ranging from RM1,000 to RM2,000 during slower months to over RM5,000 in peak seasons, like August.
“However, it’s not just about the money. It’s about pride — pride in showing people the wonders of Mulu and knowing that I’m contributing to my community,” he said.
Carving Out Opportunities Wherever Possible
Rohses Mamat from Batu Bungan has taken a different approach to making a living in Mulu’s tourism industry.
As a freelance porter, occasional boatman, and day labourer, the 29-year-old Penan thrives on the flexibility and variety that his work provides.
“Most porters are happy with their jobs. The income is good, especially during the holiday season, when we can earn between RM3,000 and RM4,000 a month,” he said.
Even though Rohses has never ventured outside of Mulu for work, he is grateful that his job provides him with the opportunity to meet people from around the world and from different walks of life.
He described this as the most rewarding part of his job, as he often learns new things from the various people he meets.
“Tourists come from all over the world, and meeting them has helped me improve my communication skills,” he said.
However, Rohses’ work is not without challenges, especially when it comes to navigating the rivers of Mulu.
“The rivers of Mulu, with their strong currents and rocky terrain, require skill and patience to navigate,” he said.
When it comes to fulfilling his duties as a porter, Rohses acknowledged that the work can be physically demanding, as it often involves carrying heavy loads over long distances and navigating rugged terrain.
“There are times when the trails are steep or the weather is unpredictable, which makes the job even tougher. But I have learned to adapt and pace myself to ensure the job gets done,” he said.
Despite the physical challenges, Rohses finds the work rewarding.
“It’s satisfying to know that my efforts help visitors experience the beauty of Mulu. Every trip is a reminder of the importance of teamwork and resilience,” he said.
Rohses also highlighted the significance of maintaining a positive attitude in such demanding work.
“The key is to stay focused and find motivation in the fact that you’re contributing to the community and the tourism industry,” he added.
Creating a Home Away from Home
For Diana Mani, the owner of Diana Homestay, running a homestay is more than just a business.
She said it’s a way to share her culture and connect with people from around the world.
“I started the homestay in 2018, and it’s been a rewarding journey. The tourists love staying here because they enjoy learning about our way of life, experiencing our local food, and feeling the warmth of our hospitality,” she said.
Her homestay has seven rooms, but Diana currently rents out four, which can accommodate up to 21 people at a time.
“For large groups, the space works perfectly. But I’m already planning an extension to add 10 more rooms because the demand keeps growing.”
Diana’s homestay is particularly popular during the peak tourist season in June and July, when she’s usually fully booked.
“It’s a great feeling to see how much people enjoy their time here, especially when they leave positive reviews that attract even more guests,” she said.
Diana believes her focus on local culture and food is what sets her homestay apart.
“I love cooking for my guests. They always enjoy trying exotic dishes and fresh fish from the river — it’s something they can’t get anywhere else,” she said.
However, Diana prefers to promote only her rooms rather than offering full meal packages.
“I want my guests to explore the area and try food from different places. It gives them a variety of experiences and supports other local businesses as well,” she explained.
Running a homestay in a remote area like Mulu comes with its own unique set of challenges.
One of the biggest issues Diana faces is the cost and logistics of transporting building materials for her planned expansion.
“Everything, from cement to bricks, has to be brought in by boat. If the river levels are low, it becomes even more difficult. These logistical hurdles slow down construction, but I’m determined to finish the project when the budget allows,” she said.
Diana pointed out that there is increasing competition among homestay operators in Mulu.
Despite the competition, she emphasised the importance of supporting fellow homestay operators.
“There are about 18 homestays in the area now. While it’s good to see more locals benefiting from tourism, it also means we have to stay competitive by offering affordable rates and excellent service.
“If I’m fully booked, I always refer guests to other homestays in the area. It’s better to work together as a community because we all benefit in the long term,” she said.
Diana remains optimistic about the future of Mulu and its growing reputation as a premier tourist destination.
She also encouraged young people in Mulu to take advantage of the opportunities available in their hometown.
“There’s no need to leave for the city; you can build a future here while staying close to your family.
“Be proud of where you come from and work together to make Mulu an even better place,” she said.
The Ripple Effects
The economic benefits of tourism in Mulu extend far beyond individual livelihoods.
Local businesses, such as cafes, craft shops, and transportation services, have thrived due to the steady influx of visitors.
These enterprises not only provide jobs but also help preserve cultural traditions, as many rely on locally sourced materials and crafts.
Tourism has also brought global attention to Mulu’s conservation efforts, fostering initiatives like sustainable tourism practices and eco-tourism programmes that directly involve the local community.
Programmes such as waste management and environmental education are ensuring that tourism benefits both people and nature, creating a model of harmony between development and preservation.
Meanwhile, the Sarawak government’s investments in infrastructure have significantly improved the quality of life for Mulu’s residents.
Projects such as the Sarawak Alternative Rural Electrification Scheme (SARES), enhanced telecommunication networks, and improved internet connectivity are addressing the challenges of living in a remote area.
At the same time, the state government is also focusing on the upgrading of rural schools and clinics to address gaps in education and healthcare for the people of Mulu.
Through these initiatives, tourism and government-led development are working hand-in-hand to ensure that Mulu’s progress is inclusive and sustainable, providing opportunities for its people while safeguarding the natural and cultural heritage that makes this area so extraordinary.
Hopes for the Future
While tourism has brought immense benefits, it also comes with challenges.
The growing number of visitors in Mulu places pressure on its fragile ecosystem, and balancing economic development with environmental preservation remains an ongoing struggle.
Additionally, competition within the tourism industry is increasing.
As more homestays, guides, and services emerge, locals must find ways to differentiate themselves and sustain their livelihoods.
Despite the hurdles, the people of Mulu remain optimistic.
They envision a future where tourism continues to grow responsibly, creating more opportunities for locals while preserving the region’s natural and cultural heritage.
For Ritchie, the dream is to see more Sarawakians visit and appreciate Mulu.
“Many of our tourists come from Europe or Peninsular Malaysia. It would be great if more locals explored this place and supported what we have here,” he said.
Meanwhile, Diana expressed hope for greater collaboration within the community.
“When we support each other, everyone benefits,” she said.
At the same time, Johnny commended the state government for bringing development to Mulu despite the geographical and logistical challenges.
“The electricity and clean water supply projects have been a big help. I hope more developments like these come our way,” he said.
A Legacy Worth Protecting
As this series concludes, one thing is clear: the true wonders of Mulu are not just its caves, forests, or rivers, but its people.
The resilience, adaptability, and generosity of the community are what make Mulu truly special.
Mulu’s UNESCO designation is more than a title — it is a legacy of harmony between nature and humanity.
By sharing their stories, the people of Mulu remind us of the importance of sustainable tourism and the powerful impact it can have on communities.
Mulu is not just a destination — it’s evidence of the strength of its people and the enduring beauty of its natural wonders.
