Author: James Ritchie

Last leg to Tarakan and Balikpapan

The biggest adventure you can take is to live the life of your dreams. – Oprah Winfrey, American talk show host It was time to leave Long Nawang and head for Tarakan where another tragic Japanese war crime occurred in 1942 when 215 Dutch soldiers were tricked into surrendering, and

Noble journey of the ‘Belaga Patrol’

I vividly remember the stories my grandfather told me about the carnage of the First World War, which people tend to forget was one of the worst massacres in human history. – Antonio Tabucchi, Italian writer  On Sept 10, 1945, more than 30 brave ‘Orang Ulu’ travelled 300km up the

My 2,000km flight to Long Nawang

We know about every massacre that has taken place close to the present, but the ones in the distant past are like trees falling in the forest with no one to hear them. – Steven Pinker, Canadian-American cognitive psychologist On Nov 29, 2017 I flew to Long Nawang, to investigate

Genesis of a grisly tale

People speak sometimes about the “bestial” cruelty of man, but that is terribly unjust and offensive to beasts, no animal could ever be so cruel as a man, so artfully, so artistically cruel. ―f0 Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Russian novelist In 1995 at a “tuak” rice wine drinking session at the Kuching

Miracle of the blind pastor

Miracles happen to those who believe in them. – Bernard Berenson, American art historian From an island of inter-tribal wars and the legends of giants who roamed the Borneo central highlands of North Kalimantan, Kerayan has now become a fast-developing enclave. Within the last 30 years, the highlands have become

In search of ‘Upai Semaring’, the Leaping Giant

The study of folklore is largely the study of particular folklore genres: myth, folktale, legend, ballad, proverb, riddle, superstition, etc. – Alan Dundes, American interpreter A remote tribe sharing the Sarawak-Kalimantan border claims that a “giant” from the central highlands of Borneo founded the Kingdom of Brunei 700 years ago. I

Ba’kelalan: Gateway to North Kalimantan

Men want a battle to fight, an adventure to live, and a beauty to rescue. That is what is written in their hearts. That is what little boys play at. That is what men’s movies are about. You just see it. It is undeniable. – John Eldredge, American author A

Return trip by cargo ship

After three days with the Basap cave dwellers we had to take the long journey home by a sea vessel. From Teluk Sumbang I hired a cargo vessel Anugrah Indah (Beautiful Gift), owned by a Bugis from Poso in Sulawesi (Celebes). Yunos Padui, who was the Juragan (skipper) of the

Penan Basap – the last Kalimantan cavemen

The most common trait of all primitive peoples is a reverence for the life-giving earth, and the Native American shared this elemental ethic: The land was alive to his loving touch, and he, its son, was brother to all creatures. – Stewart Udall, American politician As an investigative reporter, I’ve

Gawai Madu Buling – Great Mourning Festival

I think one of the coolest things you can do is disappear for a while, because it gives you the chance to re-emerge. To sort of pounce out of the jungle. –  Josh Homme, songwriter Some journalists, myself included, have been mollycoddled once too often because we think we are