BY KAVITA KAUR
KUCHING: In the bustling metropolis of Beijing, amidst the sea of global cuisines, a Sarawakian gem shines brightly.
Jasmine Kho, a 37-year-old entrepreneur from Kuching, has carved a niche for herself by introducing authentic Southeast Asian cuisine to China. Over the past two decades, she has transformed her passion for food and culture into a thriving empire, symbolised by her flagship restaurant, Mulu Hutong.
Kho’s journey is rooted in her deep connection to her homeland. Growing up in Sarawak, she was exposed to a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. This foundation inspired her to promote the flavours of her birthplace to a global audience.
In 2012, she launched her first restaurant in Beijing, Mulu Hutong, named after the iconic Mulu National Park, a Unesco World Heritage site in Sarawak.
The restaurant, located in the heart of Beijing’s cultural hub, was an instant hit. With its unique blend of Sarawakian and Southeast Asian dishes, Mulu quickly attracted a loyal clientele.
Kho’s signature dish, Sarawak Laksa, became the talk of the town, thanks to a recipe passed down by her grandmother. Made with a blend of 36 spices and cooked with a rich broth of chicken bones, prawn shells, and fresh vegetables, the laksa captured the hearts of both locals and expatriates.
More than a restaurant
Mulu is not just a place to eat; it is a window into the rich cultural portrayal of Southeast Asia.
Kho has designed her restaurant to reflect the beauty of her homeland. The interior combines elements of Sarawak batik patterns and the lush landscapes of Mulu National Park, creating an ambiance that transports diners straight to the heart of Borneo.
Her menu, curated with precision, offers a range of Southeast Asian delicacies, including nasi lemak, chicken rendang, Penang char kuey teow, and durian cendol.
She has also expanded her offerings to include dishes from neighbouring countries such as Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia, fostering a sense of Asean unity through food.
Kho’s restaurants have become a magnet for Malaysians visiting Beijing. Many make a beeline to Mulu for a taste of home. Her culinary skills and entrepreneurial spirit caught the attention of the Malaysian High Commission, culminating in an invitation to meet the Malaysian King and his entourage during their visit to China.
This recognition was reflets Kho’s role as an unofficial ambassador of Malaysian culture. Her efforts to promote Malaysian cuisine have been lauded by dignitaries, including Sarawak’s Minister of Tourism, Creative Industry, and Performing Arts Datuk Seri Abdul Karim Rahman Hamzah, who visited Mulu in September 2023.
Expanding horizons
What began as a single restaurant has grown into a culinary empire. Jasmine now heads the Mulu Group, which operates over 20 restaurant brands in Beijing. These include a Michelin-recommended Thai restaurant and a street-food-inspired Southeast Asian eatery.
Her ambition extends beyond Beijing, with plans to franchise the Mulu brand across China and explore an initial public offering (IPO) in the next five years.
During the Covid-19 pandemic, She adapted by launching smaller, more accessible dining concepts.
One of her standout ventures is Kakikopi, a contemporary take on the traditional Malaysian kopitiam. Located in Beijing’s Xiaoyun Lu Food Street, Kakikopi offers a casual dining experience with affordable Southeast Asian dishes like beef rendang, Hainanese chicken rice, and Nyonya kueh.
Magic of Sarawak Laksa
Sarawak Laksa remains Kho’s crown jewel. Its popularity has skyrocketed, with patrons queuing for hours to savour the dish. At major events like the Asia Food Festival, her laksa booth drew massive crowds, selling over 300 bowls daily.
Sarawak Laksa is not just a dish but a cultural experience. Each bowl tells a story of heritage, crafted with ingredients sourced from Malaysia to ensure authenticity.
Kho sees food as a bridge between cultures. Her restaurants have become platforms for “food diplomacy,” introducing Chinese nationals to the rich heritage of Southeast Asia. Through her culinary creations, she fosters a deeper understanding of Malaysia and its neighbours, strengthening ties in the region.
Vision for the future
Kho’s vision extends beyond business. She hopes to inspire the younger generation of Sarawakians to dream big and embrace their cultural heritage. Her story reflects the power of perseverance, creativity, and a love for one’s roots.
In the words of Kho, “Food is the best way to connect people. It’s not just about flavours; it’s about stories, traditions, and memories.”
As Kho continues to make waves in the culinary world, her journey serves as an inspiration to many. From a young girl in Sarawak to a celebrated entrepreneur in Beijing, she has proven that with passion and determination, the world is truly your oyster.
For Malaysians visiting Beijing, a trip to Mulu or Kakikopi is more than a meal — it’s a homecoming. And for the rest of the world, Kho’s restaurants offer a taste of Malaysia’s vibrant culture, one dish at a time.
