Celebrating the Peranakan culture

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Posing with Peranakan ceramic wares with the Phoenix as the main motif.

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An evening of elegance

A Peranakan-inspired soiree was recently held at TAI TAI, a fine dining restaurant in Kuching, where ladies got to dress up in their fashionable Nyonya attire, sway to the rhythm of Peranakan music, take selfies and wefies, admire heritage jewelleries, and savour scrumptious Nyonya desserts.

Choosing a party theme can be challenging, especially when hosting a large group of friends, as we must consider everyone’s interests.

When a Peranakan sculptural jeweller from Penang offered to deliver a free talk on the revival of heritage jewelleries, the most versatile option was to set up a Peranakan evening where ladies may have fun dressing up as senior or little Nyonya.

Besides, some of us in Kuching are of Peranakan descent or have adopted Peranakan culture, thus we could have a Nyonya kebaya and sarong stashed away in our closets.

What is a Peranakan? And if you think a Peranakan is the offspring of a Chinese and a Malay, let’s delve deeper.

Between the 14th and 17th centuries, a significant number of immigrants from the southern provinces of China arrived and settled primarily on the Malay Peninsula. Those from Fujian province settled in Penang, Malacca, and Singapore.

Many Chinese descendants born locally have intermarried, implying the ethnicity of the various Peranakans among the Chinese population of Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia. Peranakans can be found in Kuching as well. Many of our guests’ grandmothers were Peranakan, so they wore the Nyonya attire that had been passed down to them.

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The Peranakan lady’s traditional Nyonya kebaya is still fashionable today. It is an upper garment with a front opening. It is traditionally fashioned from lightweight fabrics imported from Europe during the colonial era, such as cotton, plain gauze, voile, and others.

The front is embellished with needlework in floral, figural, and geometric designs and is secured with buttons, pins, or brooches.

A sarong is then worn with the kebaya top, although today it is also worn with a skirt or pants.

During the colonial era, a refined Peranakan man donned western suits and indulged in English pastimes like dancing or listening to music on a gramophone.

Our theme party co-organizer was Chung Sung Siong, a young lawyer who dressed up as a colonial Kapitan by wearing a white suit and a colonial hat.

The smart young man even brought along old records to listen to on an old gramophone in our event venue TAI TAI. Many people are unaware of Peranakan music and songs, which are distinguished by the use of Chinese, Malay, and Indonesian instruments and influences. Some of us swung along with the music, while others were bemused.

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Apparently, the future of Peranakan music appears to be jeopardised due to a decline in the number of traditional musicians and a lack of enthusiasm among the younger generation.

Our theme event drew more people than expected, and attendance had to be restricted in order to have a cosy soiree in an old mansion in the heart of Kuching.

The building, which was built in the 1920s, was carefully restored before the pandemic took place. It became a sophisticated restaurant with timeless elegance. Restaurateur Michelle Lim, who also serves as the Chief Chef at her fine dining restaurant TAI TAI, has beautifully furnished the mansion with Peranakan ceramic wares and fascinating artworks.

A Mr Chan, whose family built the mansion but has since sold it to a Lee family, was delighted to attend the event.

Many ladies arrived looking elegant and stunning in their traditional Nyonya kebaya tops with lovely embroideries.

The guests all around the two-storey mansion were taking selfies and wefies. The ambiance was perfect for great shots.

There was also a casual talk and a display of silver and gemstone jewellery by Jonathan Yun, a renowned Penang Sculptural jeweller. He was in Kuching for the final episode of the TVS reality show “Dara Kenyalang”. Yun is the maker and sponsor of the Winner’s Crown.

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We discovered from Yun the reason the phoenix, as opposed to the more typical phoenix and dragon motif, is the most dominant design element in Peranakan ceramic wares. The dragon symbolises the Qing emperors, and Chinese who left China for greater opportunities in Southeast Asia saw no reason to remain loyal to the emperors.

A Peranakan gathering must include Nyonya Kueh or Kuih. The bite-sized colourful snacks are usually made with rice flour and coconut milk and can be sweet or savoury. They are a must-have in Peranakan cuisine, whether steamed, baked fried, or boiled.

The Ang Ku Kueh (red tortoise cake in Hokkien dialect), which is thought to bring prosperity, is a favourite. It is a small round or oval-shaped pastry with a soft and sticky glutinous rice flour skin that encircles a sweet filling in the centre. It is shaped into a tortoise shell and place on a small piece of banana leaf.

Onde Onde are little dessert balls infused with pandan juice, filled with palm sugar, and coated in freshly grated coconut. When you take a bite, the palm sugar literally bursts in your mouth!

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